Don’t be a fool and turn up to your MOT unprepared, it takes 5 minutes to go through a quick pre MOT checklist to make sure you don’t fail on something stupid like a bulb that has blown. Thankfully I have an ace friend called Ash who happily let me pop over and go over it with him, he also feeds me well and that’s always a bonus.
I need to fix my front washer pump and fix up my exhaust (again) I really need to reroute the exhaust so it isn’t the lowest point on the car… Also my brake pads could do with changing soonish so I’ll use that as an excuse to put on my longer studs and spacers!
The other day a new draft of the revised MOT standards was put online here.
Ssomeone on RR very helpfully had a look through and pulled out some key points that would affect older cars:
* Battery insecure is back as a fail, as well as battery leaking electrolyte
* All visible wiring to be inspected for security and damage
* Balljoint dust covers damaged to be a fail
* Inappropriate repair or modification to any part of vehicle that might affect roadworthiness
* Chafing and damage to fuel pipes and hoses to be a fail
* Brake fluid warning lamps (where fitted) either illuminated or faulty to fail
* Door open warning lights (where fitted) to fail if not working
* Deteriorated engine mounts to be a fail
* ALL seats (including rear) to be checked for security
* Driver’s seat adjustment (fore / aft) must work and lock in position – stuck in a single position will fail!
* All doors (inc rears) to be checked for opening and closing – rears must open from outside, fronts from inside and outside.
* Speedometer clearly not working, glass or dial missing or damaged to the point reading is impaired to be a fail
* Speedometer illumination not working to be a fail
* Towbar electrics to be checked visually and, if a 13 pin euro socket, tested electrically
